by T. Eve Greenaway

Jarring and canning—or "putting up"—fresh food that you want to eat later has been a creative tradition since long before Green Giant and Smuckers came along. Today, a new generation of DIY foodies is giving this old-fashioned form of preservation a green spin. Pickling and canning allow you to capture sustainably grown produce at its seasonal peak and eat local throughout the seasons. Start now and you'll be a pro by the time the summer harvest arrives.

SUPPLIES

In addition to the freshest locally grown produce you can find, you'll need the following:

1. Baking sheet
2. Jars
3. Jar lifter
4. Lid lifter
5. Jar wrench
6. Kitchen tongs
7. Canning funnel
8. Tall 8- or 10-quart stainless-steel pot

STERILIZING

When you've finished preparing food to be canned (or nearly so), place jars, lids, and rings on a baking sheet in a 220-degree oven for at least 20 minutes. Jars should still be hot when filled. Don't touch the glass with your grubby fingers—that's what the lifter and tongs are for.

PROCESSING

Once jars are filled and closed, submerge them in a pot of hot water, making sure at least two inches of water cover the lids. Boil for 15 minutes. Remove the jars and let them cool overnight. During this period, each lid should make a loud ping sound as it becomes concave, forming a vacuum. Check all the lids; if a jar hasn't sealed properly, repeat the boiling process (or just put it in the fridge and sample its contents first). Labeling the jars with the date will help you remember which to eat or give away first. (Most properly preserved and pickled food will last for at least a year before chemical changes occur that might affect taste and texture.)

TIPS

Home canning kits are cheap, hugely helpful, and available at most kitchen supply stores. Look for canning jars in the baking aisle of any large grocery store. If this is your first foray into canning, start with half-pint (8 oz.) jars and move up to full pints once you find a recipe you want to make in bulk.

KUMQUAT MARMALADE

Add texture to warm, flaky croissants with a pat of butter and a dollop of this tangy jelly.
Makes 2 pints

• 20 ripe kumquats
• 2 oranges
• 4 cups water
• 2 cups sugar, or more to taste
• 1 package pectin (we used Sure Jell)
• 1 tbsp lemon juice

1. Cut the kumquats into thin slices and remove the seeds. You should have about two cups' worth. 2. Peel the oranges and slice into chunks. 3. Combine the fruit, cover with four cups of water, and let sit overnight. 4. Boil the kumquat and orange mixture, uncovered, for 30 minutes. 5. Transfer mixture to a three-quart saucepan. Stir in sugar, taste, and add more if desired. Add pectin. 6. Return to heat and boil five minutes, stirring constantly. Stir in lemon juice. 7. Using canning funnel, ladle into four sterilized half-pint jars. 8. Seal and process.

BREAD AND BUTTER PICKLES

Save this recipe for summertime, when cucumbers are in abundance at farmers' markets.
Makes 6 pints

• 4 lbs. cucumbers (Kirby are the pickle standard)
• 4 cups ice
• ¼ cup kosher salt
• 1 large onion
• 2 ¼ cups apple cider vinegar
• 1 cup sugar
• 1 tbsp mustard seeds
• 1 tsp turmeric
• ¾ cup water

1. Cut cucumbers into TK" slices. 2. Place in a bowl with ice and salt. Let stand four hours. 3. Combine remaining ingredients in medium-size saucepan and bring to a boil. Reduce heat and let simmer for five minutes. 4. Reserving the liquid, drain cucumbers and carefully pack into six sterilized pint jars, keeping the top rim clean. 5. Using funnel, fill jars with vinegar mixture to TK" from the top. 6. Seal and process. Wait a week before sampling.

PICKLED CHIOGGIA BEETS WITH GINGER

Chioggia beets are prettiest served atop a salad of greens and goat cheese.
Makes 2 pints

• 3 bunches pink Chioggia beets
• 4 cups ice
• 1 cup water
• 1 cup rice wine vinegar
• ½ cup white vinegar
• ½ cup sugar
• 5 slices fresh ginger
• 1 tbsp kosher salt

1. Steam beets whole for 45 minutes or until very tender. 2. Remove from heat and soak in ice bath for five minutes. 3. Remove skins (they should slip off easily). 4. Slice beets into " rounds. 5. Combine remaining ingredients in a small saucepan and bring to a boil, then remove from heat. 6. Place beet rounds in four sterilized half-pint jars, keeping the top rim clean, and pour liquid over beets, using funnel. 7. Seal and process. Let beets marinate for at least five days before sampling.

APPLE BUTTER

Sweeten up a plate of crepes with this delectable topping.
Makes 4 pints

• 5 lbs. apples (try Gravenstein or Granny Smith)
• 3 cups apple cider or cup apple cider vinegar
• 2 cups water
• 1 cup sugar
• 2 tsp cinnamon
• ½ tsp ground cloves
• ½ tsp allspice

1. Peel, core, and dice apples. 2. Place pieces in a large saucepan with one cup water. Cook over medium heat for approximately 30 minutes. 3. Using a blender (preferably handheld), puree apples until they reach the consistency of applesauce. 4. Add cider or vinegar, sugar, spices, and one more cup of water. 5. Simmer on low heat for two hours, stirring occasionally for the first hour. As the mixture starts to turn brown and thicken, stir more frequently. 6. Remove from heat, cool, and pour into eight sterilized half-pint jars. 7. Seal and process.